Instructions: Preheat oven to 500°.

Wash the button mushrooms well and grind them in a food processor. Place on a sheet pan and sweat in oven for 15 minutes or until liquid starts to release.

In a narrow stock pot, heat 2 tablespoons canola oil over medium heat. Add onions and stir until onions start to turn translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the wines, dried porcini mushrooms, thyme, bay leaf and peppercorns. When wine has reduced to almost dry, add the button mushrooms and 3 quarts cold water. Bring to a simmer and reduce heat to medium-low, skimming impurities periodically. Simmer, uncovered, until liquid has reduced by half, or when the stock has an intense mushroom flavor. Take pot off heat and pour liquid through a fine chinois or mesh strainer and reserve. Discard mushroom solids. Pour liquid back into the pot and add in heavy cream. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for about 30 minutes to reduce.

Whisk in the roux and reduce for another 10 minutes, whisking periodically. This should thicken the soup, but not too much.

Season the soup to taste with fresh- squeezed lemon juice (you may not need all of it) and salt. Strain again though a fine chinois/strainer and serve. (If making ahead of time, chill in an ice bath, then transfer to the refrigerator. Reheat before continuing.)

To finish, saute wild mushrooms in remaining 2 tablespoons canola oil over medium-high heat until they begin to turn color. Remove pan from heat and season with salt and white pepper. Return the pan to heat and add shallot and thyme, stirring often, until the shallots are soft and the thyme's perfume is released.

Divide wild mushroom mixture among six bowls and ladle the soup over the top.

Note: A roux is made of equal parts butter and flour. To make a blond roux, place saucepan over medium-low heat. Melt butter, then stir in flour. Mixture will begin to bubble and slowly turn color. Continue to stir until roux turns slightly brown and smells like cookies, about 2-3 minutes.

Cream of Mushroom Soup

(as it appears in the San Francisco Chronicle)

Serves 6 From Ian Begg of Cafe Majestic in San Francisco.

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